Compiled by guest blogger Gaz Marshall, here’s a great pile of new problems that have been discovered since the last update (click HERE for that one). It’s not totally comprehensive, but it’ll give you enough to be going on with. Many thanks to all the folk that unearthed these little sandstone gems. They are; Richie Betts, Gaz Marshall, Ann Falconer, Nigel Holmes, Dan Varian, Greg Chapman, Andy Banks, Euan McFadyen and someone else.
The Celtic Area
0 East Face Face 6B
Climb the flake crack on the slabby east face from a stand start and finish easily. Reachy. The sit start will be quite hard.
Richie Betts on East Face Face
9A White Dwarf 6A+
Just right of, but independant from Black Hole Problem. Start right hand undercut, left hand in break. Throw up to the next slot/break and pull over onto the slab.
12 The Notorious BLP 7C+/8A
Formally known as the The Bad Landing Project.
Richie Betts on The Notorious BLP
12A Slot Machine 7A
Often wet groove left of Slot Crack. Highball, but eases with height.
Click HERE for a vid of Gas Marshall on Slot Machine
14 Pulley System 7A+
19A Three Ledge Shuffle 5+
The stepped ledge system in a pillar right of slot wall two, from a sit start down and left. Highball easy finish.
23A Super Pittance 10m E6 6b
Oops a trad climb has sneaked its way into the Jumble! Climb the wide diagonal crack, left of the Pittance, to a ledge. Step right and go up the wall past a good Rock 4, before a hard move gains a good hold. Place small cams (Black Diamond C3 00 and 000), then gain the edge on the right and follow this leftwards to the top.
Click HERE for a vid of Super Pittance
Ian Taylor on Super Pittance
52A Nelson Mandela's Crack and Smack 7C+ Sitter
Starts on big undercut under the roof right of Spaceship Wall Right-hand. Make a hard move to a pocket on the lip then head straight up through some poor slopers. Somewhere between 7B+ and 8A+
54 Spaceship Wall Right-hand 6B+ Sitter
55C Beyond the Pale 6B Sitter
On the terrace right Challenging Times is small square block. This climbs the right-hand arete from a sit start.
55D Pale Rider 5 Sitter
The left arete from sitting.
The Ship Area
The Prow Boulder
85 Phoenix Nights 7C+
The original left hand start hold has broken but it has been repeated at the same grade.
85A Phoenix Fights 8A+
Low start to Phoenix Nights.
Tetrahedron
86 Bertram Dickson
Has lost a starting handhold and might now be worth 6B+.
92 Unnamed 6B+ Sitter
A small east facing overhanging wall up behind the Ship. Sit start at the arete and move rightwards through a thin break to a jug. Finish direct from the jug.
The Pedestal
95A Unnamed 7B Sitter
The sit start to Tia Maria then move into the easy crack on the face to the left. Superbly technical.
Wave Wall Area
105A Varian’s Vibes 6A
Slab a couple of metres right of Muir’s Masterpiece, with a square flake feature at half height.
108 Wave Arete Sit Start 7B+ Sitter
Wave Arête sitter. An explosive pull off the deck.
109A Over Rising 6C
Wall right of Poachers Fall above an obvious flat plinth. Reachy moves to the lip undercutting the horizontal break.
Richie Betts on Over Rising
109B Unnamed 4+
Little dirty wall right again on (l)edges.
Another Level
115 Worry Bomb
Starting footledge has broken. Starting in the same place as the original problem is now at least a grade harder but it’s possible to start on better holds to the right at around the same grade.
Indian Winter
119A Unnamed Sitter 6B
A line squeezed in between Indian Winter and Fecal Transplant, joining the latter at the top. Good moves on thin crimpy breaks.
Piranha boulder
120 A Crack in Time 6B+ Sitter
Originally given 7A so maybe holds have come off as subsequent ascents have found it much easier no matter how far back in the cave you start.
Angel Walls
131A Dyno 7B Sitter
142 Morning Afterglow 6C Sitter
The short slopey left to right rising rib at the very right end of the angel walls. Superb rock, some of the best in Torridon. An extended start (School Sucks) starts further left 7A.
154 Slipstones Thing 6C Sitter
156B Lie of the Land 6C+
156C Unnamed 5+ Sitter
Easy flowy arête right of Lie of the Land.
156D Vision Thing 6A Sitter
10m below and right of Lie of the Land, in a hollow. Right to left lip traverse - start sitting right of the embedded block. Finish up obvious rib on left.
Up the Hill Area
Campsite Boulder
1 Mac Bonzai 6C
Knee-bar beta emerged, leading to a downgrade.
Italian Dude on Mac Bonzai
1A Mac Bonzai Left-hand Finish 6C+ Sitter
Big move up and left.
1B Mac Shuffle 7A
Traverse the wall right-to-left and finish up Mac Bonzai Left-Hand.
1C Dartboard Memory 7A Sitter
In cave facing Mac Bonzai. Start sitting on a boulder and after an explosive couple of moves go up the left wall of the cave entrance. A good 6A from standing.
Richie Betts on Dartboard Memory
1D Compression Depression 6B Sitter
Just left of Dartboard Memory. Compression problem finishing leftwards.
Fence Crag Boulders
Short stumpy slopey lip boulder on a terrace above Fence Crag. Fence Crag is HERE
1 Special Measures 6B Sitter
Right hand line from a sit start and pressing out onto the slab
2 Wrong Direction 6C Sitter
The left hand line start from undercut jams and climbs the short arete.
Boot Flake
1 Bracknell Prognosis 7A/+
Start from the edge at the base of the arete (or from the higher jug at 6C if you’re very lanky) and work up the right arete to finish up the cracked slab.
2A Two Worlds Collide 7A
Line left of Bracknell Prognosis. If you’re tall you might be able to start matched on the hanging jug and make a long move to a hidden hold at the top of the steepness. Finish more easily through the big break.
Richie Betts on Two Worlds Collide
2B Worlds in Collision 7B
A lower start to 2A, from the edge at the base of the arete common with Bracknell Prognosis. No blocks for feet.
5 Booting Up 6C+
The left-hand line on the front face of the Boot Flake. Start on the prop boulder, use foot jams and small undercuts to get established on the face. Trend up and slightly rightwards to finish.
Gaz Marshall on Booting Up
6 Sole Purpose 7B *
Climb out the roof onto the blunt arete and slopers then trutch/heave/wretch/style your way up to the top via a wicked deadpoint move. A Glen classic.
Erm...There’s a boulder/pinnacle thing up on the terrace a couple of hundred metres east of the white holiday cottage. Basically above the cattle grid, but hidden from the road.
Needs a name 6B+ Sitter
East face from a sit start on a layaway and a crimp in a break. Heading for a sloper jug in a slot thing.
The Seven Mile Boulder
5 Sassy Lady 7B+
Left-hand prow of the steep east face. Start kneeling, matched on the low crimps on the arete. Make a few hard basic moves to a tricky top-out.
6 Scot Rail 7C Sitter
Sit start up the ramp in the middle of the downhill face, no slinking off right into Sassy Man. Torridon’s hardest top-out thus far…
7 Sassy Man 7C Sitter
Right-hand prow of the steep east face.
Village Boulders NG 893 567
Just after leaving Torridon village (heading west) there is a small jetty and parking spot (NG 895 565). A path starting on the north side of the road, contours the hillside westwards. Follow this for 200m. Two boulders lie above the path.
Western Bloc
1 East Wall Groove 5 Sitter
Sit start below the hanging corner of the east wall and climb straight up into it.
2 East Wall 6A Sitter
Sit start as per East Wall Groove, but match crimps just left of the base of the hanging corner and span up left to a large side pull and easy top out.
3 Southeast Arete 6A Sitter
The burly SE arete of the western boulder from a sit start.
4 South Face 6A
South face of the western boulder, right of the large sloping ledge, avoiding right arete.
To the east and higher up the hill is another boulder.
5 Sticky Damph 6C Sitter
The obvious rising right-to-left lip traverse.
Click HERE for a vid of Sticky Damph
6 Damph Fine Coffee! 5 Sitter
25m right of Sticky Damph - slabby wall behind small tree from sitting.
Nigel Holmes on Damph Fine Coffee!
Hairpin Boulder NG880571
This is the boulder underneath Hairpin Crag that almost overhangs the road on the first hairpins after leaving Torridon village toward Diabaig.
1 Wot's Hairpinning 6C Sitter
The left arête of the steep face is a short prow, which climbs nicely and doesn't give up till your stood on top. Start sitting in the dip, left hand on the large sloper and right hand on the good sidepull next to it.
2 Chicane 7B Sitter
From a stretched sit start matching the blind flake in the middle of the face, make a hard pull on and go for the nice juggy pinch on the flake up and right. From here go up left past the crucifix crack and back up right to a perfect jug on the lip of the boulder. 7A from a crouch start matching the starting flake.
3 Accidents Hairpin 5
Heading up right after the first move shares the same crux but is considerably easier after this, following lovely juggy pinches and pocket, so is arguably better from a standing start at about 5 (careful on the horizontal pinch, it moves, and could leave you lying on the road!)
Moat Boulders
Just after the first hairpins on the Diabaig road there is a cattle grid with a large layby just beyond (enough space for 3 cars). On the opposite side of the road are a few boulders in the woods, below a broken crag and waterfall. All of the described problems are on the left hand boulder.
1 Bàta Beag 7B+ Sitter
The ramp and prow line on the left side of the boulder. Sit start matched on the smiley jug rail. Follow the lovely sloping ramp out rightwards to the little prow and climb this. A sitting start under the prow (lh vertical sidepull, rh slopey crimp) is nice too, at about 6C.
2 Lyme Time 6B+ Sitter
Start matched on the left end of same rail as Bàta Beag but go straight up on slopey crimps and up the slab to finish.
3 The Groove 6B Sitter
An awkward sit start off the boulders.
4 Kid Gloves 6C Sitter
The left side of the vertical face. sit start (rh on curved crimp that looks like the top of a snow peaked mountain, lh on a square cut protruding crimp at a similar level). Pull up left to crimps in the thin break, then up left again to carefully use the fragile flake to gain a nice flat crimp on the left then straight up to finish.
5 Cluais Balla 7A Sitter
The right side of the vertical face. From the same sit start as Kid Gloves follow the break up right to a big span to the cool juggy ear in a pocket then on to the top. Probably easier for those who don't have to undercut the break.
Andy Banks on Kid Gloves
Andy Banks on Bata Beag