One for the Honey Monster at the Sugar Kelp Walls
Not the most interesting of blogs today, but here’s a handy file of all the new routes added to Reiff, since the SMC guide came out in 2004. There’s more than 50 of them so get ticking.
Rhue Bouldering
Rhue is a small rocky peninsula about 5km north-west of Ullapool. Most of the bouldering areas are scattered around the lower slopes of Meall Garbh and the sea-cliffs north of the Rhue lighthouse. Apart from The Rhue Blocks none of the areas are particularly extensive, but they are all fairly close together, so a varied circuit is possible. The bouldering is diverse and easily accessible on good quality rock.
Approach From 10seconds to 10minutes
Take the main road north out of Ullapool (A835) for 3km, turn left along a single-track road (signed for Rhue) and continue to a parking place at the end of the tarmac. The Studio Boulder is situated about 1km along the Rhue road. To maintain good relations with the local residents please follow the access directions accurately.
The Studio Boulder South facing
This gives three problems of passing interest.
Approach 10 seconds from the road NH 104 969
Approximately 1km along the Rhue road and just before Rhue Studio is a prominent boulder on the north side of the road.
1. Left Arete 5+
Start under the left arête. Swing round left on slopers then use a crack to regain the arête and up this. Mind your back on this one.
2. Studio Scoop 6A
An isolated gritstone gem taking the central scoop. Start with right hand on an undercut round to the right and left hand on a vertical seam. 6B from sitting.
3. The Ramp 5 Sitter
The ramp on the right is more awkward than it looks.
The Hollow South-west facing
This small outcrop is situated in a hollow about 100m inland and is not visible from the parking place. Although there aren’t a lot of problems it does dry very quickly and is easily combined with a visit to the other areas.
Approach 5minutes from the road NH 095976
Follow the descending path just below the parking place, go through the wooden gate, turn right and follow the line of the fence. After passing a flat boulder, aim for a point approximately 100m right of the lighthouse and follow vague paths for another 100m until the crag appears suddenly on the right. There are some high easy problems on the far left, but most of the bouldering is on the right. Not all the problems are described, use your imagination for the rest.
From right to left
1. Captain’s Crack 2
The short slabby crack on the right.
2. No Hander 6C
The slab right of the bulging nose. Wait a minute, the only way it could be that grade is if you weren’t allowed to use your hands! Yes, no hands on this one.
3. Nipples 6A
The left side of the bulging nose gives a great problem, tweaking a crucial pebble high up.
4. Indentation 4+ Sitter
A good warm-up taking the overhanging crack right of the rock ledge.
5. Juggernaut 5 Sitter
From a good jug go up the right-hand groove swerving hard right to escape.
6. The Low Traverse 6B+ Sitter
From the jug gain the left-hand groove, then continue up and left until long reaches reach a finishing flake. A technical little number chock full of good moves. For more fun start as for Captain’s Crack and traverse left to gain the starting jug.
Gaz Marshall on No Hander
About 30m up and right from the main area is a short scooped wall.
Ghobhlach Edge 4+ Flakes on the left side of the wall lead to a rounded finish. The Scoop 5 The central line. Right Edge 3 The easiest of the trio.
The Garden Wall West facing
Although nothing special these three problems are worth doing if you’re passing by.
Approach 1minute from The Hollow
Going left from The Hollow for about 50m one comes to a flat grassy area below some short outcrops. At the north end of this is the 4m high Garden Wall.
From left to right
Earthbound 4+ Step up right onto a ramp, then out left and up the scoop just right of a black lichen strip.
Gem Stones 4 Start at the lowest point and go up past a good break to finish on pebbles.
Amethist 3 Climb straight up left of some heather to the obvious finishing hold.
The Irrigation Boulder West facing
This trivial looking boulder turns out to be good fun if you like slapping for sloping breaks.
Approach 2minutes from The Hollow
Go about 30m north from the top of The Garden Wall to find this low bulging boulder.
From left to right
1. Splash 5+ Sitter
Claw up the left side of the boulder using sloping breaks.
2. Gobstopper 6B Sitter
A similar problem 1m to the right. No using the ledge under the boulder.
3. Glare 5+ Sitter
Start just right of a nose. Go straight up. Again, the ledge is out of bounds.
4. Deep Bog Soloing 6B+ Sitter
From the starting holds of Splash work rightwards along the lip and finish up Glare.
The Detached Block West facing
Situated high on the Meall Garbh hillside above The Hollow is a large detached block with a chimney behind it and an undercut wall to its left. It has a great view out to the Summer Isles and is the most likely place for a midge-conquering breeze. Some of the problems are a bit route-like and are bold if you insist on topping out, but there’s enough low stuff for the sensible. It can seep a bit after heavy rain.
Approach 10minutes from the road NH 097 976
From The Hollow go north over rough ground for 100m then zigzag up a short steep heathery slope.
1. Dark Crack 4+
The right to left rising crack on the back of the block gives an elegant long problem.
2. King of the Olympian Gods 5
The left-hand of the two arêtes on the tall gable end. A bit scary.
3. Pegasus 5+
The steeper right-hand arête. Even more scary, but good for the photos.
The undercut wall problems are described from right to left. All can be done with a sitting start at a slight increase in grade. Many stamina link-ups and circuits are possible.
4. St Martin’s Crack 5
The lofty flake-crack. A bit worrying to top out, with a long reach to a hidden jug.
5. Paul’s Wall 6A
The blunt rib just left of the flake-crack. Finish at a good break at about 4m.
6. Orthodox 6A
An eliminate problem on the wall left again.
7. Cleric Wall 4+
The scooped wall. Thankfully the finish is easy.
8. St Martin’s Edge 5+
The thin crack round to the left starting from the ledge.
9. The Traverse 6A
The right to left traverse under the roof with an awkward section that leads into a diagonal crack and an easier finish. Try to avoid the tempting ledge.
10. The Simian Lip 6B+ Sitter
Start sitting on a flat rock in the chimney on the right. Without using the back wall heel hook leftwards along the lip and finish up Cleric Wall. Using the back wall lowers the grade to 5+.
The Rhue Blocks South facing
These are the boulders and small crags that are seen behind the houses on the southern slopes of Meall Garbh, and as usual the outlook across Loch Broom to Beinn Ghobhlach and An Teallach is fantastic. They see much sun and dry very quickly allowing mid-winter bouldering. The gritty rock can be a bit scrittly in places and it’s pretty tough on the skin. In high summer it can often be uncomfortably hot and bracken can obscure some of the problems.
Approach 10minutes from the road NH 098974
The local residents would really appreciate it if you don’t take a short cut between the houses. The best approach to avoid both the houses and boggy ground is to follow the descending path just below the parking place, go through the wooden gate, turn right and follow the line of the fence. After passing a flat boulder, continue in the same direction until about 10m after crossing a stream, then trend rightwards over rough ground. Wellies or boots recommended.
There are three large boulders at the right end with a line of small crags extending leftwards behind them. An obvious feature is a cave with a built up wall near the centre of the crags. 50m left of the walled cave, just past an easy diagonal crack, is a steep nose.
1. Sheep Poo 5+ Sitter
Start on good holds on the left arête. Pull round left onto an awkward slabby wall. Finish straight up.
2. The Deceiver 6B+ Sitter
Same start but make a hefty move up and right to a good hold above the nose, then flop your way over the top. The independent direct start is quite a tough little number at 7A.
Deceiver Direct
3. Fern 4 Sitter
A sitting start 5m left of the cave with a much easier finish.
4. Bracken 4 Sitter
A similar problem starting 1m left of the cave.
5. Disney Tour Traverse 5+ Sitter
From jams in the depths of the cave span out left to good holds left of the cave entrance. Continue left with heel hooks to finish up Bracken.
6. Cave Crack 5 Sitter
From the jams at the back of the cave follow the crack to finish up the flake.
7. Hanky 5
Pick your way up the nose just right of the cave.
8. Panky 6A+ Sitter
An eliminate up the middle of the wall to a slopey top-out.
9. True Grit 4+
The right side of the wall.
Next right is a very low boulder with a scooped face.
10. Scoop Left 4+ Sitter
The left edge of the scoop.
11. Scoop Right 5+ Sitter
Technical moves up the right edge of the scoop.
Next right is a concave gritty wall. This is an obvious challenge as yet undone.
12. Concave Arête 5
Climb the left arête of the gritty wall, pulling round left at ¾ height.
13. Project The concave wall.
Trying the Project Wall
14. Gritty Dog Leg 5
The obvious crack.
15. Nae Cracks 4+
The slab right of the corner avoiding the cracks on either side.
Behind the Cave Boulder and right of a wide crack is a leaning wall with a rounded top out.
16. Bump and Grind 6A+
The leaning wall, starting at the right end of a horizontal flake, leads to a less than dignified exit.
17. War Wounds 6A Sitter
At the right end of the wall is a thin crack. Start just left of this, at a couple of broken holds, and make a big move to a good hold, then finish straight up.
18. Rhue Baigh Tuesday 5+ Sitter
The nose right of the thin crack.
The Forge Boulder
This is the massive tilted boulder with a cave on its right side.
19. Kiln 4+
An excellent highball problem up the slabby left side of the boulder.
20. The Anvil Chorus 6A+
Start from a flat rock just left of The Forge and go boldly straight up to an uncertain finish.
21. The Forge 6B
A brilliant problem that climbs the front face of the boulder. Start from an open pocket for the left hand, slap up right to a sloper, then undercut the break on the left to a delicate pebble finish. The sitting start coming in from the left is 6B+ without using the block under the boulder.
The Forge
22. The True Forge 7A
The vague ridge on the front face yields to hard moves using an assortment of pebbles and slopers. A excellent example of the Rhue genre.
23. The Right Forge 7A+
From a crouching start under The True Forge follow a diagonal seam leftwards on slopers, to gain the open pocket. Finish up the original problem. Again, no block.
24. Brown Egg 6B
A tricky pull onto the high slab using a worrying large brown pebble. So far the pebble’s only been tested to 60kg!
Gaz Marshall on The Brown Egg
25. Slab Layback 5+
The wall left of the cave can be climbed using a tempting flake on the slab above. Requires a bit of faith in sticky rubber.
26. Caber Tosser 6C
The blunt nose just left of the cave succumbs to an excruciating combination of pebble pulling and blind footwork.
Cave Boulder
This is just right of the Forge Boulder.
27. Skinshredder 7A+ Sitter
Start at the back of the cave with hands on slopers and your toes hooked in a break. Climb out and right, using some disappointing pebbles, to gain the lip of the short wall. Traverse right along the lip and pull over. No bridging. The true bum scraping start, using a painful hand jam, is a little harder.
28. The Original Skinshredder 6C Sitter
Bridging out to a small foothold on the left wall makes for a far ‘nicer’ problem with some unusual moves.
29. Nameless Traverse 6A
Start on the far right of the short wall. Traverse left along the lip of the wall and finish by bridging up the cave apex. A few metres right of Cave Boulder is another smaller boulder.
30. The Bear Hug 5+ Sitter
A satisfying wee problem. Using both arêtes of the steep side hug and hook your way up. It’s slightly harder only using the left arête.
31. On the big flat boulder nearest the houses various easier problems have been done. Some have boggy landings and wellies are useful.
Jeni Cunningham on The Bear Hug
The Sea-cliffs Mostly West facing Tidal
Although not many problems are described here it’s a great place for chilling out or warming up, especially when the sun’s shining. Keep an eye out for otters.
Approach 10minutes from the road NH 093 975
Initially follow the same approach as for The Hollow, then head towards the lighthouse.
Starting 50m north of the lighthouse and extending for another 100m is a complicated area of short tidal walls and inlets. These give a limited number of easier problems and traverses. Finding the best sections takes a bit of hunting around, but the rock is excellent and it’s good fun if the tide is in.
Continuing along the cliffs passing a long slabby wall and a steep prow, one eventually comes to an impressive open corner above a flat non-tidal platform. This approach is possible at mid to low tide. The impressive corner is Rhue Corner (a classic E1) and although some bouldering has been done in the vicinity the rock is a little gritty and only a one problem is described.
The Perestroika Traverse 6C
Start below and left of Rhue Corner with hands on a low ledge. Go left at a low level using nippy pockets and edges until at a hands off rest under a huge roof. The second half of the traverse is a complete contrast, huge handholds and a ledge for the feet, but very steep. Continue until easy ground is reached.